Backpacking Haleakalā: A Magical Adventure with My Daughter

Our 3-day backpacking trip into Haleakalā Crater, the world's largest dormant volcano, was an adventure we’ll cherish forever. It was Aurora’s first backpacking trip, and we experienced everything from stunning, otherworldly landscapes to physical challenges and rare wildlife. Here’s how we prepared, what each day was like, and the lessons we learned along the way.

Prepping for the Adventure

Before setting foot on the trail, we flew over from O‘ahu, rented a car, and stocked up on camping fuel. To make sure we were well-prepared, we packed ultralight clothes, food, gear, tent, poles, and all the water we’d need since there’s no reliable drinking water in the crater. Weeks of training on local trails, like the Kokohead Stairs, helped us build up strength for the journey. To make Aurora’s first backpacking trip exciting, we added treats like freeze-dried spaghetti, blueberry pie, and even a freeze-dried ice cream sandwich!

Day 1: Descending Into the Crater (5.6 miles)

Our first day began with a 5.6-mile hike down the Sliding Sands trail to Kapalaoa Cabin. As we descended, the landscape shifted from rugged volcanic rock to vast, lunar-like expanses. The silence was profound—Haleakalā is known as one of the quietest places on Earth. We could only hear the wind, our footsteps, and the occasional bird call.

Along the trail, we encountered the rare silversword plants, their silver leaves glistening in the sunlight. Unique to Haleakalā, these plants can live up to 90 years and only bloom once before they die, making them a true wonder to see. Aurora was mesmerized by the surreal, almost otherworldly scenery, eagerly pointing out every new discovery. At Kapalaoa Cabin, we met a friendly hiker who offered us warmth and running water—luxuries in such a remote place. We shared stories with him before retreating to our tent for a chilly night under the stars. Nearby, Nēnē geese, Hawaii's endangered state bird, wandered freely, adding to the magic of the experience.

Day 2: Silence and Nēnē (5 miles)

After a quiet night in our tent, we set off for our second campsite near Holua Cabin, about 5 miles away. The sheer silence of the crater is something that stays with you. It’s not just quiet—it’s a deep, almost meditative stillness. For us, it created a space to connect with nature in a way we hadn’t before.

Along the way, we continued to see nēnē, and Aurora loved spotting them in their natural habitat. There’s something special about hiking with Aurora in such a remote place—she notices details that adults often overlook, and it makes the experience richer.

Day 3: Running Through the Clouds (3.7 miles)

The third day was the most challenging—the strenuous 3.7-mile uphill climb out of the crater. The ascent was tough (especially since I ran out of water along the way!), but we kept going, step by step.

Just as we neared the top, something magical happened: we were suddenly surrounded by swirling clouds. It felt like we were running through the sky, with the mist swirling around us in every direction. For Aurora, it was a moment of pure joy—her first time truly in the clouds.

The sense of accomplishment we felt at the top was overwhelming. We had pushed ourselves physically, but the emotional reward was far greater.

Lessons from the Crater

Haleakalā taught us more than we expected. The vast silence and beauty reminded us how small we are in the grand scheme of things, yet how deeply connected we are to nature. Aurora learned valuable lessons about perseverance, preparation, and the rewards of pushing through challenges. Of course, no backpacking trip is complete without the less glamorous side of wilderness life—like learning how to properly handle “poop in the wild.” It was a humorous but important crash course in Leave No Trace principles, teaching Aurora the significance of respecting the environment. For us, it was a powerful reminder to unplug and embrace the world’s wonders with gratitude.

Tips for Backpacking with Kids

1. Preparation is Key: Make sure you’re well-prepared—there’s no water in the crater, so plan accordingly. Involve your kids in packing to give them a sense of ownership.

2. Pace the Journey: Kids move at a different pace, so take your time. The crater offers endless opportunities for discovery.

3. Pack Fun Meals: Familiar, fun meals can make all the difference for kids, especially after a long day of hiking.

4. Embrace the Silence: The crater’s quiet is unlike anything else. Teach your kids to appreciate this rare stillness—it’s a powerful experience.

5. Celebrate the Small Wins: Every mile is an achievement, especially for young adventurers. Take time to celebrate their efforts along the way.

   
   

A Magical Experience for All

Hiking into Haleakalā Crater was an unforgettable experience for both of us. The landscape is surreal, the silence is profound, and the sense of accomplishment at the end is unlike anything else. Aurora’s first backpacking adventure not only introduced her to the wonders of nature but also gave her a taste of the magic that comes from pushing through challenges and exploring the world’s hidden gems.

Whether you're a seasoned hiker or new to backpacking, Haleakalā Crater is a place that will leave a lasting impact—especially when shared with kids. It’s a place where memories are made, and lessons are learned that will stay with you forever.